Lublin

Monday.

We arrived around 16:00 (everything here is 24 hour time. I love it.) The view from outside our hotel is – not Chicago public housing projects – but a city still housed in war-era bloc concrete buildings.

We are in a nice hotel, about three kilometers from the main square. Our room is quite small, but clean and comfortable.

Tomorrow, we meet up with a guide from a local Jewish Historical Society. We will go to Opole Lubelskie, which is close-by and where my great-grandfather was from. Then we will go visit two death camps (Sobibor and Belzec). We will come back to Lublin tomorrow eve (Tuesday) and then explore this area on Wednesday, returning to Warsaw on Thursday.

My mom was here-ish (Lithuania) a week before I arrived, so she has a rather large and heavy travel bag. One of the things about these towns is that they tend to lack certain modern conveniences. Like elevators. Lifts. Electric people movers. She is mom, so of course, I do what I can to make her trip as comfortable as possible. My back and shoulders do not agree. We got off the train today in Lublin and had to go down a longish flight of stairs, walk under the tracks, then go up another set of stairs to the station-side. I got her bag down the stairs, but could not muster the strength to get it up the next flight. (mind you, I’d done similar earlier in the day while still in Warsaw. My back was already a bit worn). Luckily, we found a small lift that took us up. I hope that luck continues.

Day One: On the train

I’m sure you can imagine where my head was post-museum.

As we ride along, I can’t help but think of the cattle cars and box cars that transported Jews along these same tracks away from the Warsaw Ghetto, various towns and Schtetls, to death camps such as Sobibor and Belzec.

The city gives way to forested landscape quickly with little towns interspersed. Birch forests line the railway. The juxtaposition of the past images with such beautiful landscape is heavy on my mind.

Elie Wiesel in his book “Night” wrote, “I’m going to teach you the difference between day and night.  Always look at a window, and failing that look into the eyes of a man.  If you see a face, any face, then you can be sure that night succeeded day.  For believe me, night has a face.”

It is daytime and the sun is bright. I look out the window and see only forest.

Day One: To the train

We left the museum to get water, some food for the 2.5hr train ride to Lublin, check out the hotel and get to the train station.

We stopped in a little market and I got yelled at (in Polish) for taking this photo of the bread display.

I had no idea what he was saying, but I could tell he was pretty upset at me. I just said, “English” and he replied, “NO PICTURES!” I gave a somewhat dismissive wave and apologized. I’m not sure why being yelled at in a language I don’t understand amused me, but it did. Quite a bit.

We ended up buying four rolls for the train ride. He wasn’t so grumpy at us when we checked out.

After gathering our things from the hotel, we made our way to the train station. We had some confusion as to which platform we needed to go to, but eventually figured it out. No thank to two ticketing agents or the random woman I asked.

Mom descends to the platform.

We are at the train station. The noise and smells  are the same as any city station. This one is not as dark as Chicago downtown Metra main station. It is more open and better lit. Chicago’s downtown Metra is one of the Nine Stages of Hell.

I understand nothing of the overhead announcer. However, in Chicago I could rarely understand the loudspeaker either. I can’t help but compare to what I know and draw similarities and differences.

The colors in this station are interesting.

Across the way, there is some mural on the far wall. I wish I knew what it says.

We are on the train. Second class here is finer than any Amtrak general admission ride I’ve taken and darn close to its first class. We have cubby seating, theoretically shared with a potential six other strangers.

We got our own room.

We had a lunch of delicious breads and pears.

Yes, I’ve been taking an inordinate amount of photos of bread. (it’s damn good here!)

A photo I took me myself

and mom reflected in our train-room mirror

. . .