Day One: Warsaw

I am not counting my travel adventure, so it is technically “Day One.”

We planned catch the 12:40 train for Lublin, so had some morning time to explore. We went to The Emanuel Ringelblum Jewish Historical Institute. We walked through a lovely park on the way.

I’m not sure exactly what the property originally was, but now it’s a lovely walk. If I could read that sign, I’d know a lot more about this park.

After a short-ish walk, we arrived at the museum.

I took a lot of photos inside, but quite a few didn’t come out. I should have turned off my flash. The museum was a Holocaust museum (if you didn’t gather that already). According to the pamphlet I picked up, “The building is located in the former seat of the Main Judaic Library and Institute for Judaic Studies, which prior to the Second World War, were located adjoining the Great Synagogue on Tlomackie street. During the Nazi occupation the building was within the walls of the ghetto. It became a vibrant center of clandestine work, of social and cultural activities.”

The building, and the adjoining Synagogue, were burned down. The Synagogue did not survive, but the shell of the Library was intact and was rebuilt after the war to become this Holocaust museum.

To view the artifacts was intense. There are photos of Jews and goyem who participated in hiding and helping Jews escape the Nazis. There are papers and photos about the Warsaw Ghetto, the uprising and the many who were killed. I’m not going to go into the whole history, because that would take way too long and hopefully you already know at least some.

The Nazis forced every Jew  post-age 12 to wear one of these armbands.

Unfortunately, most of my photos of these underground papers didn’t come out. I had no idea these publications existed. It amazes me that despite being hungry, displaced, humiliated, brutalized… people were still able to create, print, and distribute 200 – 500 copies of protest publications. (sorry about the flash glare)

Only one of my photos of a publication came out and I have no idea what it says. But you can easily get a feel for the sentiment from the image.

It is difficult to capture the scale of the artifacts, papers, and collected history that is in this rather small building. It is three stories tall, but narrow. This is a view from the stairs going up to the third floor.

This is a Seder plate that survived. It is from Germany, first half of the 19th century.

During the Seder, one of the fun things for kids is to hide the matzoh. Traditionally, at least for us, the Patriarch of the house  (my grandpa) would bribe us to get the matzoh back. One year, I got $15!

This Matzoh machine was in the hallway close to the front door.

Those of you who know me know that I call myself a “bad Jew.” I semi-celebrate Hanukkah and nod at the other holidays. I was mostly raised Unitarian and lift a skeptical eye at organized religion. That said, I have always felt a connection with my Jewish history and heritage.

When I look at the images of people in the Ghetto, the recovered papers and artifacts, menorahs from the destroyed Poland, I see my history.

Those were my people.

5am in Warsaw

Our little hotel room has a porch. We are on the eighth floor and could see out wonderfully if it weren’t for a privacy scrim that is dropped down on the outside of the porch. I can see out somewhat, and people on the street can not see me. Unfortunately, it makes it so I can’t take photos of my view.

It’s 5am here. Because of my delay yesterday, I won’t get to visit Warsaw. Today we leave for Lublin and hope to get connected with a tour guide from one of my mom’s University connections. He would drive, which would enable us to visit all the places we want (Lublin, Opole Lubelskie, Sobibor and Belzec death camps)

My grandmother told me that it is the Jewish holiday of Sukkot this week. She said if I see little huts around, that is what is going on. My mom and I talked about this over dinner last night. She reminded me that there are very few Jews here anymore. For some reason I had it in my head that after the war, Jews had returned, but no. The extermination made an emptiness that never was refilled.

My great-grandparents are from those two towns (Opole Lubelski and Lublin). Hopefully, we will find some of their history, if not, it will be good to step foot in their home where they walked.

I really hope I don’t start whistling from “Fiddler on the Roof”

on arrival in Warsaw

I usually like flying into cities at night – the lights and pattern are lovely, but I really wanted to fly into Warsaw during the day. Since we aren’t going to spend much time in the city, it is one way I could have seen some of it from a somewhat unique perspective. Hopefully, our flight out is during the day. (I should consult my itinerary. )